Spectrum returns to an apparently lawless part of Bangkok, where drugs, pirated goods and women can easily be bought
The illegal drug trade, prostitution and illicit street bars are flourishing off Sukhumvit Road near an area known as Soi Africa, with local traders and businessmen fearing the area will be turned into a ghetto.
Six months after Spectrum published an article revealing the illegal activities, an investigative team returned to the area near Nana Entertainment Plaza to see if the situation had improved.
Spectrum randomly monitored the situation in this area until the beginning of this month, when the team returned to the "crime scene" and spent more than one week there, day and night, gathering information.
Spectrum not only spoke to a number of people, both locals and foreigners who live or do business along Sukhumvit Road, but also witnessed some suspicious activities that were most probably related to illegal drugs.
The results of our investigation revealed not only that all the illegal activities reported on six month ago had increased, but that new illicit products - including sex toys and erectile dysfunction drugs such as Viagra - were also now found on sale. This trend is quite disturbing when considering that now is the low tourist season, with even fewer people arriving due to the anti-government red shirt rallies.
Maybe the authorities do nothing because they regard the drug trade, prostitution, pirated DVDs, sex toys and illegal mobile bars as insignificant offences compared to arson, the use of war weapons, destruction of public property and the shootings that occurred during the recent red shirt protests.
One example of the growing problem: On Dec 25 in 2009, Spectrum counted - between Soi 2 and Soi 15 - 37 mobile bars with more than 204 tables and about 1,180 chairs. On June 9, the count was up to 53 mobile bars, more than 440 tables and about 1,656 chairs. Moreover, the area where the bars are located now stretches to Soi 23. This is clear evidence that the authorities haven't taken any action, even though each mobile bar is breaking several laws.
A MAN OF SOME INFLUENCE
Mr Somsak, a street trader who has been working on Sukhumvit Road for almost 15 years and now owns several stalls, is known as an "influential person" in the area. Some might think he is a member of the Mafia. He reluctantly agreed to discuss the issue.
He is closely associated with the authorities who oversee the area. He is like their eyes and ears, because he knows everything that goes on in the area.
"He admitted to looking after his fellow vendors by non-violent means, and sometimes helping them financially.
"Business for hundreds of vendors here is way down from previous years, mainly thanks to the red shirt rallies and the disturbances they caused. We are still suffering a lot because there are very few tourists around.
"However, business for the Africans, especially those who deal in drugs, seems to be going very well. They know that the police are obviously preoccupied with the red shirts, so they have taken full advantage of that. They are well informed as to what is going on.
"I've heard that they are paying someone high up in the government a lot of money. In return, the authorities overlook their criminal activities, even going as far as allowing them to park their cars in prohibited areas."
Mr Somsak also admitted that he has absolutely no influence or power over the Africans who operate in the area. "They can operate on their own. They don't need Thais, except the ones who are paid to protect them. Most of them are dealing with drugs and are also involved in various cons, some involving US currency, targeting primarily foreigners.
"I've seen that many Africans who live here for a long time get rich. They used to wander around in old jeans and sandals, but now they're well-dressed and wear expensive accessories such as brand-name watches, jewellery and gold. They like to show off their wealth.
"Now there are new Africans coming here. They have no money, like their countrymen who arrived here before them.
"Many have overstayed their visas, some don't even have their own passports and use lost or stolen ones with their photo attached. We also see more new African prostitutes working the street. They are rarely arrested either. As far as I know, no Thai authority has paid any attention to this problem for the past few months.
"Some Africans open shops to sell goods locally or for export, or run travel agencies. However, I can't say if those are actually legitimate businesses or merely fronts for illegal activities. Maybe they are doing both at the same time."
Mr Somsak hasn't heard of any Africans being arrested recently around Sukhumvit Road, but some have been picked up by police in the Phra Khanong and On Nut areas, where many live.
He said that street vendors have been allowed to operate from 6pm to midnight on the footpath between sois 3 and 5, where local and foreign prostitutes, mainly African, were previously soliciting on the kerb.
About 20 stalls now prevent this, but they still gather on street corners and in shop entrances, and come out in force after midnight, when the vendors are packing up and leaving.
"To arrest them wouldn't stop the complaints because after a while they would be replaced by others. Therefore, a compromise was found - filling the footpath with tables. A typical Thai way to do things."
He also claimed that the number of mobile bars had increased over the last few months. "They pay money under the table to the authorities. Frankly, I don't understand how they can operate with so few tourists. Most customers are foreigners who live in Bangkok and arrive after the bars close to drink - sometimes with Thai girlfriends - until early morning."
When asked why most of the mobile bars were staffed with ladyboys, he replied: "Maybe this is the trend. Some customers like to take them out too."
THE PHARMACIST
Mr Lek owns a pharmacy on Soi 3. He told Spectrum that when he opened his shop about three years ago there weren't many Africans around, but now the street is full of them.
"They gather in large groups, mainly in the evening and at night, often standing in front of my shop. They drink nearby, where they wait for customers to buy drugs. I believe that this is the only business they are doing.
"Customers, whether Thai women or foreigners, will walk in and out in a few minutes, so I know why they come here. If anyone ventures into the soi, especially a Thai woman, men will approach them and offer them drugs or jobs abroad," Mr Lek said.
"Every day I see Thai teenagers and some farang buying drugs from the Africans. Drugs are sold freely, even during the day, on Sois 3 and 4.
"During the red shirt rallies, the number of Africans in the area increased. Many have Thai girlfriends who are prostitutes. They work for them, selling drugs.
"Many Africans drink heavily, and often fight and scratch cars in the soi, and also steal things from the shops. They won't buy anything in my shop over 40 baht, usually just water or sweets. Some don't have money, especially the newcomers. They beg me sometimes for medicine, and they promise to pay later.
"Some sell drugs in my shop. This makes me furious. I chase them out if I spot them. They also deal on the street in front of my shop. I tell them to go somewhere else. I'm considering putting a notice on the door saying: 'You can't do business in the shop.'
"A Thai girl once came in for headache tablets, followed shortly by an African man. They talked to each other and he dropped a bag of drugs into her bag. I told them to leave immediately. I also notice that sometimes they show samples of their drugs to customers.
"When I opened my shop, I saw the police here often, arresting people, but now the police do nothing.
"The Africans know it, so many more are coming. This area has become a bad and dangerous place. It seems to me that even if the police arrest some of them, others will quickly arrive to replace them. Several African men have told me that they were offered jobs in Bangkok by friends, but when they arrived there was no job for them but selling drugs. They have to do it to make enough money to leave the country.
"If one African is arrested, another will replace him. I've seen it many times with my own eyes.
"To arrest them is not the solution. Some says that they have connections with friends in Burma, Laos, Cambodia and China."
And Mr Lek had a warning for our two female researchers who interviewed him: "If you hang around this area, they will approach you and ask whether you want something, like drugs or a job."
And he was proved correct.
"Several Africans entered the shop and bought some cheap items, just to look at us closely," said one researcher.
In the meantime, a group of five Africans gathered outside the shop and tried to attract our researchers' attention by shouting: "Hey sister, are you looking for something? Where are you going?"
"When we left the shop, the Africans surrounded us, saying: 'You don't look so happy. Do you want to buy something to make you feel better?'
"When we didn't reply, they said: 'Do you want to make some money?' We were afraid of them so we quickly left the area. They followed us only to the end of the soi," said one, and the other added: "This soi and the people here are weird and scary. I will never return!"
THE RECEPTIONIST
A receptionist at a hotel in Soi Africa said that many African prostitutes took drugs. She also said that the police often used to raid various places in the soi, but not now.
"I've also noticed that the prostitutes and the men in the area usually know in advance that the police are coming."
There are several clubs and drinking establishments near the guesthouse that are frequented only by Africans. They often fight each other, but the police will not intervene. On one occasion she called the police, but no one came, so she no longer bothers.
She also claimed that the police had raided the soi during the night at the end of January, taking many people away by bus, but two days later the street was full of Africans again.
MR SUK
Mr Suk, a street vendor who has sold roast chicken from his mobile stand on Sukhumvit Soi 5 for 15 years, said: ''Business is getting better since the red shirt rally at Ratchaprasong ended, but it's still quiet compared with before.''
He said that the number of illegal mobile bars is increasing, as are stalls selling pirated DVDs, sex toys and fake watches. They disappeared for a while, but are now returning.
Mr Suk claimed that the police had asked him to gather information on the Africans and their drug dealings, but he refused, saying he was afraid and preferred to simply just sell chicken.
He added that anyone with a cart selling food, ice-cream or fruit must also pay a fee to the authorities, just like other vendors who have a fixed place on the footpath.
''There's a queue because so many people want to work here, but there are no vacancies as every part of the footpath is reserved. Even though there might be an empty place, you can't just walk in, put a table there and start selling. You could try but it wouldn't be more than a few minutes before someone comes and asks for money.''
THE SECURITY GUARD
An elderly security guard who works in front of a hotel in Soi 5 told Spectrum that a group of six to 10 Africans gathers opposite the hotel every day from 5pm to 8pm.
''I've been watching them for weeks, and I suspect they are involved in dealing drugs. Sometimes people come up to them and something is exchanged. I didn't inform the police because I don't want to be involved with the Africans or the police. But everyone here knows what they are doing.''
Spectrum observed them for some days. They watched passing cars and tried to wave down vehicles driven by foreigners. One of our investigators saw them gathering opposite a large food store on Soi 5 shortly before they left to gather outside the hotel. After taking photos from a secure place, our researcher walked past them slowly and was immediately approached. After a short exchange they started to talk about drugs. The researcher made an excuse and left.Despite their readiness to talk and outward signs of friendliness, the group is very careful and employs counter-surveillance measures, such as walking up and down the street, and looking around carefully. That's why they work in a group. They also screen each person they talk to, obviously aware of the possibility of the presence of readily concealed video cameras or microphones. In fact, some of these gadgets are sold by nearby street traders.
OTHER AFRICAN GANGS
Spectrum spent many hours in the area, especially at night, and saw many suspicious activities, mainly conducted by Africans. After tip-offs from several street traders, Spectrum made a special effort last Sunday and conducted some surveillance and there was plenty to see.
Three African women arrived on the corner of Soi 5 at 9.30pm, followed by an African man carrying a lunch box. He looked around very carefully before opening it and giving something to the women before leaving. Obviously, he didn't give them sweets. Whatever they did appeared to be illegal.
Whatever occurred took place in a dark area behind a nearby motorcycle taxi stand. When Spectrum asked the riders what the four were doing, they all replied: ''Drugs. We won't take them if they want to ride on a motorcycle. They deal with drugs and we could be stopped and arrested by the police.''
Soi Africa was very busy that night, with many Africans standing around in groups. Spectrum saw several Thai women walking in, looking carefully around and turning back. Some African men followed them for a while before returning to the soi.
A large group of well-dressed men sat drinking close to Soi 3 when two men arrived with a large black bag. They spoke with one drinker and gave him a package from the bag. Suddenly, another African appeared, collected the package and quickly left, as did the two men, who strolled to Soi 3, crossed the road and jumped into a taxi.
Spectrum spoke to people in the area who said the Africans are becoming more self-confident and arrogant, and it is almost as if they are running their own state in Soi 3. They react quickly if someone tries to take photos, while other groups of Middle Eastern or European appearance don't appear to care. This would indicate that the Africans are doing something wrong and fear being photographed. The people working at mobile bars and vendors selling pirated DVDs, non-lethal weapons, fake watches, clothes or leather goods react in a similar manner.
ILLEGAL ACTIVITIES
The number of stands selling non-lethal weapons such as knuckledusters and stun guns has dropped, but the amount of such merchandise on display has increased.
The number of stalls selling pirated DVDs has also dramatically increased. Among the titles on display are adult movies. According to one vendor, this increase has occurred over the past two months ''because the police do not come now. They are too busy chasing the red shirts''.
One new development is that several stalls on Sukhumvit Road are now openly displaying various sex toys, which are illegal in the Kingdom, as tourists and children walk past. One such stall is at the bottom of the staircase to the Nana BTS station.
There are also more Viagra and similar medicines displayed on stalls. The sellers are nowhere to be seen _ often they are sitting at a nearby stall, selling innocuous items _ but they make themselves known if a prospective customer shows any interest.
FOREIGN PROSTITUTES
As for foreign prostitutes, a visit to a well-known hotel with a reputation for such activity on Soi 3, at 11pm last week, exceeded all expectations. Dozens of women from former states of the Soviet Union were walking in and out of the hotel, many sat together in three coffee shops and appeared to be getting ready to solicit for clients.
There were many more women near the hotel than six months ago, indicating both _ as they confirmed _ that business is good and that the authorities are doing nothing about them. Many stay in Thailand on tourist visas, and they don't stand on the street any more because of the fear of arrest.
Many told Spectrum that business is good because there are always plenty of men from the Middle East around.
''They will come no matter what is happening. They don't care whether there are rallies, shootings, coups or even revolution. Nothing like that is happening on this street,'' said one woman, adding that the curfew should continue because it allowed her to charge customers for an overnight stay.
Another prostitute said that the African women don't pose any threat to them because they look for clients on the street and because they don't look healthy.
THE POLICEMAN
One anti-narcotics policeman said that his colleagues are aware of the problems of illegal drugs and Africans. Many drug couriers arrested at the airport recently have links to them.
He said that the situation will change soon, but refused to elaborate. The officer estimates that at least half of all Africans are staying in Thailand illegally, adding that they should be arrested by the Immigration Police as this would make the work of the narcotics police much easier.
INSIDE THE SOI
Spectrum visited Soi Africa one evening at 9.15pm and was engaged in conversation by the proprietor of a clothing shop.
''Aren't you afraid to walk around here? Most of the Africans gathering around here are criminals who came from many countries.
''I'm considering closing the shop,'' he said. ''My customers are afraid to come here because they are harassed by drug dealers. If you come around midnight you will see several hundred Africans gathering here. They often quarrel, fight, pee on the street and make everything filthy. I don't understand why the authorities allow it.''
While talking to her, in a span of 10 minutes two Thai women walked past and entered a bar at the end of the soi. They emerged a few minutes later and walked back. ''They came here to buy drugs,'' the shopkeeper commented.
Suddenly, a police pick-up with lights flashing stopped at the entrance to the soi. The Africans didn't pay much attention to the patrol. Two uniformed policemen looked inside the soi without leaving the vehicle and left a short time later.
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